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So we say, ‘ non-fumer’, we go in and you have those tables that are so tightly packed together that you can’t get in unless you pull the table right out and I went in and sat on the banquette and he was pushing the table back in and my wife was sitting down and I looked to my left and these two people here, very close, were smoking, and I looked to my right and the two people there were smoking and I looked up at him and raised my hands as if to say, ‘?’ And he says, ‘Oh.’ And he reaches into his pocket and pulls out a no smoking sign and places it on our table. “We walked in, and we said, ‘Can we have a table for two?’ And the guy said, ‘ Bien sur.’ And he was about to turn away and then he rolls his eyes and says, ‘ Fumer ou non-fumer?’ Because they’d just changed the law, you had to have a no-smoking section. He remembers another time in Paris, arriving at a hotel on Saint-Germain in the early afternoon, “thinking, ‘We’ve got a big dinner later, let’s go and grab a salad at Flore.’ Or to be on Saint-Germain, in Café Flore, or Deux Magots, or Brasserie Lipp.” These places were transforming for him. To sit in those restaurants, and even Terminus Nord. There was another one up near Pigalle, which I loved.
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He remembers, many times, going to Paris alone, eating in the great brasseries. And it taught me so much about the difference between the French and English approach.” The generosity, the conviviality, the warmth. They brought out freshly made goat’s cheese. And they produced pâtés and stuffed mussels. “We told them our friend’s name and they said, ‘Oh! You must come back tomorrow.’ And we said, ‘We can’t, we have to leave.’ And they said, ‘Well, join us then.’ This was their day off. He remembers a time in France in the 1980s, turning up on a Monday lunchtime at a restaurant a well-connected Parisian friend had recommended, south of Avignon.